The Wonders of Japanese Paper and Ink

Rob and I spent October travelling in Japan; from Tokyo, south to Hiroshima and back. I was fortunate enough to take this wonderful photo of Mt Fuji from the high-speed train. Friends who have visited Japan many times say they have only ever seen it shrouded in clouds - but here it is in all its glory, as though straight out of a print by Hokusai. We visited many temples, wandered through their peaceful gardens and admired the exquisite screens painted centuries ago. Of course the trip also enriched my appreciation of their art.

Two highlights for me were, firstly, I finally had the honour of meeting Keitaro, who runs the Kobaien ink website, and who has been my support and mentor. It was he who gave me the commission I wrote about in my last post. I met him in Tokyo and he took me to Ozuwashi paper shop - which opened in 1653! There he helped me buy some truly beautiful papers, including the gold-flecked Mino Rakusui paper I used for 'Owls in the Snow'. When I was paying, the assistant asked if I painted, so I showed her some pictures I had on my phone. She called everyone to have a look - and then they spontaneously gave me a round of applause! I was both surprised and overwhelmed! I am very aware that I am treading lightly and respectfully in another nation's culture and heritage, so I was truly humbled by their appreciation of my work.

Keitaro also organised for me to have a personal tour of Kobaien inks in Nara - which was the second highlight. We left visiting Nara until the very end of October in the hope that the weather might have cooled enough for them to start ink production - and I was in luck. They had started just the day before I got there. I had seen the production process in a video on YouTube (https://youtu.be/GSuFSYY-X9w), but that doesn't compare with actually being there. They were collecting soot from sesame oil and the smell, which wafted across the courtyard, was wonderful. The ink is made from soot, animal glue and perfume, and takes considerable effort to kneed it to a fine consistency. I knew they dried the ink sticks in trays of oak ash, but I discovered that they had been using the same ash for over 100 years! Over this time the perfume had permeated the ash and the room was wonderfully fragrant. I asked if I could buy a couple of ink sticks - I particularly wanted a brown shade for painting owls and eagles. My guide got out Chaboku (Tea Ink), and then she went to the storeroom and brought out a tiny, beautiful stick of 90 year old ink! What an honour to have. I had heard that aged ink is a treasure, but only when I came home and used it did I realise the truth of that - there is such variation in tone and ease of control. I painted the owl in 'Owl and Pine' with it.

I am so grateful to have had these experiences, and I am determined to honour them by constantly practicing my art and striving to improve. I hope you enjoy the works I produce with these gorgeous hand made inks and papers from Japan!